Climbing Mount Fuji
I decided on a whim to climb Mount Fuji, I saw the travel time up and down and thought it would be a cake walk considering the other hikes I’ve done. So naturally I was incredibly unprepared. I’m here to tell you don’t do what I did. If it wasn’t for the hospitality of a worker at mountain hut 8 I probably would not have made it. There doesn’t seem to be enough information out there so hopefully this helps anyone trying to plan a trip.
My journey began with an early train from Hiroshima, it was pretty cool to see the station empty. I had packed some water and food, and decided that shorts, a cutoff tank, and a light jacket would suffice.
After the bullet train (getting off at Shizuoka), I had to take the local train to Fujinomiya (sometimes this requires a transfer at Fuji). From Fujinomiya station there is a bus station across the street that sells tickets for Fujinomiya 5th station (the base of the trail I used to climb Fuji). The bus picks you up at number 6.
Once on the bus it’s about 2-2.5 hours. Total travel time from Hiroshima was about 9 hours (yikes). On the bus you’ll stop at some village for 10min, this isn’t your final stop. Once at the base there’s the 5th station, with restrooms, a store, information, etc. I didn’t see any charge for this restroom, but the other huts make you pay a 200 yen donation.
So finally time to start the trail! I got off the bus and the temperature was in the 60’s, that’s about when I knew I was done for, but hey there’s a shop so I’ll just go pick up a sweater, no big deal. I found a nice long sleeve I thought should do the trick. As if realizing my lack of clothing for this hike wasn’t enough I also saw much bigger packs and everyone had a walking aid. Ammatures. So I headed up, and made it to my hut for the night rather quickly. They even told me I trekked quite fast. After just about no sleep from my journey the day before I was stoked to go to bed. So I relaxed a bit, until dinner which was at 5 (new 7th station). They served a curry, soup, and tea. (They also give you breakfast at dinner time). I met a nice older couple who was sleeping in the ‘room’ across from me. They were so kind and worried about me when I told them I only had shorts and planned to hike for sunrise on the summit (that meant leaving at 1-1:30am). A bit into dinner it started pouring outside, I was only hoping it would stop by midnight so I could continue to the top. No rain gear plus a cold mountain top isn’t the smartest idea when it’s pouring.
After dinner, I crashed quite hard with an alarm set for 1:20am. Hiking for the sunrise is what everyone does when climbing Mount Fuji. One o’clock rolled around and before my alarm could even go off I had that sweet Japanese lady waking me up to make sure I would catch sunrise. Luckily the weather had completely cleared! She also sent me off with some salt candies. So I packed up my bag and headed for the summit. Fujinomiya trail has 8 huts or stations: 5, 6, new 7, old 7, 8, 9, 9.5, and 10. I was starting at the new 7.
After studying that guide I knew I could make it as long as I made it to hut 8, the worst would be over. So I made it to hut 8, and when I did I was freezing. I stood by the open door for warmth. The guy didn’t quite get what I was doing. After going to my bag for a snack and back to the door he asked if I wanted to buy something, I said no and asked him if I could sit inside for a few minutes to warm up. He wasn’t supposed to let me but saw how cold I was, so he said okay for a few minutes. Then he asked me if I had any pants, that was a definite no. He shook his head (the I see kind) walked away and came back a few minutes later with a pair he thought, and did, fit me. I was in shock, especially because these huts are known for charging outrageous amounts for things. I thanked him over and over again, I couldn’t believe his hospitality. I asked if I should return the pants on my way down and he said no. I still can’t believe it. I should note that there would be no chance of this happening if it weren’t 2-3am but no one was around to see. That gave me the motivation I needed to continue hiking. As I got up to leave he grabbed a hot hands and handed it to me, thank you again! Like I said at the beginning, without his hospitality I’m not sure I would’ve made it to the top. So, I made a plan with my new equipment, go at the pace needed to not sweat, hot hands and long sleeve (no sweat/dry clothing) at the top. For those of you unaware sweat in cold climates is what makes you freezing cold especially when wearing cotton (the second you stop hiking). I felt like one of those chicks who goes to the gym wearing makeup and walks on the treadmill just fast enough to look like she’s working out, but not sweat at the same time. The altitude wasn’t helping either. I swear I’m not usually one for altitude sickness, but I did feel it a little. So slow hiking was the name of the game (not the easiest thing for me to do).
The city lights were incredible from the side of the mountain, and what’s cooler, because everyone uses flashlights you can see the trail just lit up. I tried to get a picture of it, but was unsuccessful. The stars were yet another feature! Even with all the lights the sky was lit up, I even saw a shooting star.
As I neared the top the lines grew. Sometimes the trail gets rather congested, but on weekdays it’s not horrible. Do plan for hiking at a slow pace though as you may not be able to get around some people. I stopped at the next hut, which was open, sat inside for warmth for a moment before getting kicked out because I didn’t want to buy anything. So onward with my journey. I made it to the top just in time for sunrise.
I found a side peak and scrambled up to watch the current eerie Mount Fuji come to life.
As the sun started to shine light on Mt. Fuji I started walking around the summit loop. On a clear day the views must be amazing. I was lucky enough to have a few clear spots! The top of Mt. Fuji probably isn’t exactly what you’d expect, it looks a bit like Mars.
In between the east and west sides of Mount Fuji, while walking in the crater, I decided it would be a perfect place to enjoy breakfast. This is the breakfast the hut gives you, it was pretty good.
When I got to the eastern side of Mount Fuji it was mostly clouds, but it still made for epic views. For once I could say my head’s in the clouds and be technically correct!
After completing the loop it was time to head down. This was tricky. The climb up was steep, down was not a walk in the park. My legs were already shakey. I started down and just tried to go slow. I can almost guarantee you you’ll slip and fall at least once going down so be careful. I slipped probably 100+ times and completely fell twice. The lava rock is reallly slippery. I came across lots on lines on the way down, I still made it down faster then up, but not by the amount I expected.
By the time I got to the bottom I’m not sure how my legs were functioning. Standing alone caused them to shake uncontrollably. My knees were so weak. I was pretty content with the long sitting journey I had back to Hiroshima.
When I finally made it back I rewarded myself with some Japanese shave ice. So refreshing!
Overall climbing Mount Fuji was quite an experience. Definitely something that requires a bit more planning than I did and proper gear. I’m not sure I would go out of my way to hike Mount Fuji, but if you’re in Japan for climbing season it’s a nice adventure.
Here’s what I think qualifies as essential gear:
hiking boots with the best grip you can find, you’ll need it
a light rain jacket, you’ll want to stay dry and the weather is unpredictable
a jacket for the top, I would recommend in between light and heavy, windproof will help as well
trekking pants, your legs will get cold
water, snacks
Here’s more that I recommend:
a walking stick of some sort, you’ll want it more to prevent slipping on the way down
gloves, the rocks are sharp
obvious, but a good camera
